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It stands for Basic Input/Output System, and is a set of read-only
instructions stored (usually) on your PC's motherboard. Your
machine's CPU reads instructions from the BIOS and executes them.
Basically, and simplistically, the BIOS controls the boot-up
methodology of your machine. It examines the various hardware
components for functionality, as well as internal components such as
the timer and controllers. It configures everything for a successful
startup, and if everything passes muster, your computer starts.
After your machine is up and running, the BIOS supplies basic input
and output services as you operate. Basically, everything you tell
the machine to do through your keyboard and mouse is interpreted by
the BIOS and passed on to the operating system, which in turn passes
on your instructions to whatever piece of hardware and/or software
application is appropriate. Contrary to popular belief, the BIOS
does not understand shouted profanity. I've checked. [Top] |
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Enter SETUP during startup; hit F2 if a Phoenix or Packard Bell
BIOS, hit DEL if an AMI, F1, F10, or whatever. Your manual knows for
sure. The easiest way to know your BIOS's manufacturer is to look
for an identifying message as your machine initializes itself on
startup. The more brazen or knowledgeable user can crack the case
and look at the BIOS chip itself. Or just download and use BIOS
Agent 3.2, a freebie that checks and identifies the BIOS with
ease. It's available from www.unicore.com/biosagent/index.cfm.
It flashes by for a brief moment during startup, assuming you don't
have a "splash" screen that hides it from you; if you can't read it
while it's displaying, hit Pause. The boot-up process is stopped in
its tracks while you squint at the tiny type. Hit any key to start
it along again.
Press Print Screen to
make a hard copy. For multiple pages, move to each page and print
each screen. This will be useful to a technician if you need one. [Top] |
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Be very cautious. Since your BIOS controls the gut functioning of
your system -- running the startup self-test and establishing
communication with onboard disks, input devices, ports, etc. -- it
should be as optimal as possible, but on the other hand, you should
be wary of upgrading it if you don't see a real need to do so. If
you've added on a huge new hard drive, a removable storage drive
such as an Iomega Zip or Jaz drive, if you're plagued with unfixable
bugs that render Windows useless, or if you want advanced Plug and
Play features, you may want to consider a BIOS upgrade. However, it
is not recommended that you upgrade simply because your manufacturer
makes a new BIOS available. This is an area best left to those that
know more than we. "Flash" BIOS's are upgradeable via downloaded software, eliminating the need to upgrade the chip manually. Most people who own relatively new computers are running flash BIOSes. This won't come up very often (or at all for some of us), but if you do find yourself in the position of needing to upgrade your BIOS, you'll be glad you've got a flash-upgradeable one on hand. Remember, as it says above, just because your computer's manufacturer releases a new version of the BIOS doesn't mean you need to scurry over and download it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. If you decide to upgrade, read all of the directions carefully, and follow them to the letter. [Top] |
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Your BIOS information may be sitting in the Registry. If you have no
other way of uncovering this information without a reboot, try this.
The data can be found in the HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE \ HARDWARE \
DESCRIPTION \ System key of your Registry. 'SystemBiosDate' is the
date of the installed revision's release. 'SystemBiosVersion' is,
naturally, the revision number. You may even even have a 'VideoBiosDate'
value, which will provide you with even more sometimes-obscure
information. 'VideoBiosVersion' falls into the same category. I
wouldn't suggest changing any of these entries; let your system do
that. If you have the System Information tool installed, it may pull
in this data in a safer environment and easier-to-interpret format.
Find out by entering MSINFO32 through the Run applet in your Start
Menu. [Top] |
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You can lose your BIOS several ways, including a computer crash or
power surge, but the most common reason for a scrambled or
inaccessible BIOS is a dead or dying battery inside your PC. A CMOS-based
BIOS is a low-power device, but still needs a trickle of power to
retain its settings. (The battery powers the system clock, too,
which is usually part of the BIOS chip assembly.) When the battery
inside your PC wears out (which it usually will in something like
one to three years), the BIOS can "forget" its information, or the
code can become scrambled. When you get a BIOS error message (say,
CMOS CHECKSUM ERROR, the first thing to look for is a dead battery.
Most PCs use a standard, coin-type battery mounted on the
motherboard. There's nothing special at all about the PC battery;
it's exactly the same kind found in watches, cameras, and other
electronic devices, and you can buy a replacement almost anywhere
batteries are sold. Just match the model number of the replacement
to that of the installed battery, and use the same common-sense
precautions you would when working on any electronic device. If a
new battery doesn't do the trick, you may need to reprogram or
replace the BIOS, as detailed above by downloading and installing a
"BIOS Update" that's specific to your exact system type and model.
If that doesn't work, you can buy a replacement BIOS either from the
system vendor, or from one of several third-party BIOS vendors; they
typically charge around $50 for a replacement chip. [Top] |
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Okay, here's a bit on replacing the CMOS battery. Most computers
today use a lithium CMOS battery. Battery voltages can vary, so
you'll need to pop out your old one to find out what type it is and
replace it with a similar kind. Make sure you match up the model
number and voltage. Changing a lithium CMOS battery is relatively
simple, although it requires that you access the inside of the
computer. To open up the computer case, you will [most likely] need
a Phillips screwdriver. Once the case is off, touch the metal
chassis to ground yourself. Don't touch anything inside the computer
(especially circuitry) to reduce the risk of static electricity
damaging the chips. To remove the battery, use a flat head screw
driver and gently 'pry' on the release mechanism. The battery should
pop out with little effort. One the battery is out, replace it with
the new one (shiny side up). That's it! [Top] |
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Debug Routine Tip |
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LangaList reader passes along this tip: "Here is a debug routine
that you can use to blow away the CMOS settings -- make sure that
you record the settings first, run the routine, and then reboot --
go into setup and restore your settings. I have seen this fix all
sorts of weird hardware looking problems -- everything from LPT1 not
working to incorrect RAM sizes. I have even seen this fix video
problems where the colors look like 256 colors even though the video
is set to high color. For the routine see www.bioscentral.com/misc/debug.htm". [Top] |
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