Troubleshooting and Resource Guide for Windows 95/98/ME/XP/Vista

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Rescue The Drowning PC - System Stability

For a new PC right out of the box or with a fresh install of a new OS, one of the first things you should do is to make an image of your entire system using a "ghosting" or disk-imaging utility. This is even more important to buyers of newer PCs that don't include a Recover disk of their own.

Read SETUP.TXT in your Windows directory before installing Windows. If it's already installed, read it anyway. Read the README files that come with your programs, before installing them, if possible. Other files to read with Windows include MOUSE.TXT, FAQ.TXT, PROGRAMS.TXT, README.TXT, and GENERAL.TXT. A document called TIPS.TXT in your Windows folder may prove useful also.

One of the simplest ways to ensure the most stable operation of your Windows PC is to install as little software as possible on the beastie. You'll reduce the number of software conflicts, make the system easier to manage, and save disk space. But gee, Mr. Wizard, I thought computers were designed to run software...I know, I know.

bomb In a strange, rather Zen way, system crashes, purges, and reboots can be good. A surprising amount of technically savvy users periodically flush and reboot their system as often as twice a year. They claim that it significantly improves performance and reliability. So, when your computer crashes and you have to scrub the whole thing, keep telling yourself that it's a good thing in the long run.

Windows 95 and its sibs Win 98 and Win ME are all rather unstable operating systems, partially by design (to accommodate Win 3.x and DOS-driven programs and devices, Win 95 left itself open to trouble) and partially by design flaws (a troublesome and only partially fixable memory leak). Never let either version run for too long when you're not using it; the memory leak accumulates over time and causes the system to crash. When you're not using the system, either shut your computer down or shut Windows down and let the computer stay in DOS. One source advises that you keep Windows running for two hours maximum before rebooting, unless you're using it to do something simple like typing; that sounds a little much to me. Other ways to lower the system stress on Windows is to keep the number of apps running as low as possible; to keep the number of windows open as low as possible; to minimize the open apps except for the one being used at the time (so much for layers of open windows); to avoid using the Alt+Tab shortcut with maximized windows (use the Taskbar instead); reduce the speed of the mouse to the lowest one you feel comfortable with (go through Control Panel/Mouse to play with the speed settings); avoid screen toys like fancy screensavers, wallpaper bitmaps, animated icons, desktop themes, and the like (use the ones provided by Windows itself, they are much lighter on system resources), avoid heavy apps like Lotus Organizer or MSOffice whenever possible, and when you do run them, don't run other programs along with them; avoid alarm/scheduler programs; stick to tried-and-true anti-virus programs and avoid newcomers which may gobble resources and cause crashes. Don't clutter up your Start menu with lots of extraneous toys, and check out WIN.INI for unneeded programs cluttering the LOAD= and RUN= lines. Does all of this sound rather anal to you? Me too, but low system resources cause crashes more often than anything else -- see below. Find out more about optimizing your system's memory management from content.techweb.com/winmag/columns/explorer/2000/11.htm, and go to radsoft.net/resources/software/reviews/rr/ for the dirt on programs that claim to rescue memory from Windows' grip, but actually do nothing.

A side note to the above: while dozens, if not hundreds, of mainstream commercial programs are significant RAM hogs, here's a list of a few -- a very few -- of the worst offenders: Adobe's Photoshop, Jasc's Paint Shop Pro, and other graphics programs; Corel's WordPerfect Suite and other apps not originally written for Windows; RealPlayer and other streaming media utilities; and instant messaging apps like AOL's IM and ICQ. Not that these are the only memory suckers, just some of the most frequently identified.

Second side note: the abovementioned memory leak was partially plugged in Win 98, but for some ungodly reason got worse in Win ME. Microsoft...gotta love 'em.

A recent list of programs that give Win ME nausea has been released. They include Cybermedia's Oil Change Uninstaller version 5 and earlier; Guard Dog version 2.5 and earlier; First Aid 97, 98 and 2000; McAfee Utilities 3.0; McAfee Office version 2; and McAfee Office 2000 (version 3.0). The Microsoft support page at support.microsoft.com/support/kb/articles/
q275/0/03.ASP?LN=EN-US&SD=S
explains what's going on (it involves a file corrupted by the above-named apps) and what you can do about it.

You need more RAM (Random Access Memory). Yes, you do. Low system resources is one of the biggest reasons for the frequency of Windows 9x crashes. This generally refers to memory. Although Win 95, for example, advertised itself as being able to run on as little as 4 MB of resident memory, this is much too low for the system to sustain itself over a period of time. The recommended 8mb of memory is barely adequate; 16 MB or above is a little better. The "sweet spot" for Win 95, according to one wonk, is 24 MB, where you get the most for your RAM dollar. Additional RAM speeds things up more, but with an ever-decreasing rate of return. These days, buying a new PC with less than 32 MB is foolish; and if you run large software programs like MS Office, the newer machines with 64 or 128 MB, or more, are a necessity rather than a luxury. The price of memory upgrading is dropping daily; it's worth a trip to your dealer to check it out. (Note: If you old 95 heads want to get truly powered-up by installing over 64 MB -- say you decide to go for 128 or 256 MB -- have a techie check to see if your chipset will support more than 64 MB without slowing down. Those using Intel's Pentium FX, TX, or VX chipsets might actually slow their systems down with too much RAM.) A common misperception is that Win 95 can't handle over 64 MB of RAM without slowing down appreciably. The truth is that Win 95 can handle up to 2 GB of RAM. The problem came with the Intel chipsets listed above, most noticeably the 430TX and the 430VX. Their Level 2 cache ignored all but the first 64MB of RAM, thus reducing their performance. Almost all Pentium II, and all PIII, users are in the clear, because their chipsets are either 440LX, FX, or BX, which can cache all the system RAM without choking. You might want to check out the info available at support.intel.com/support/motherboards, and check your own motherboard to see if you're running one of the offending chipsets. An informative discussion of motherboards and chipsets can be accessed at www.motherboards.org/chipset.html. Of course, memory requirements go up with more modern operating systems. Microsoft claims that Win 98 can run on as little as 24 MB and Millennium can run on 32 MB; the recommendations from other, more objective experts fix the minimums at 128 MB. (I'm currently running a Win ME system with 256 MB of RAM, and sometimes it's annoyingly slow.) Win XP is listed as needing a minimum of 64 MB, with 128 MB recommended, but in reality, 256 MB seems to be the lower limit if you want it to walk and talk as it's capable of doing. XP users will expect to use (and need) even more RAM; you guys can easily use 1 GB of RAM to kick your systems into high gear. XP users whose systems will support dual-channel memory should go for it. A good place for recommendations for both OS software and other programs (games, office suites, etc.) is at www.crucial.com/uk/library/softwareguide.asp.

One common sign that your memory is running dangerously low is when Explorer starts displaying the wrong icons. If you see this happening, immediately save your work and reboot. (One neat method is the "cool-boot" -- restarting Windows without shutting down the computer. Go through Start/Shut Down/Restart the computer, and as you click "Yes," hold down the Shift key.) If a program starts to misbehave (including making the system run more slowly, making the mouse jump around, making the screen twitch, whatever), save your work, shut down all programs, and cool-boot. Check your usage of system resources by going through Control Panel/System/Performance/System Resources. When the value displayed gets below 50%, save, shut down apps, and cool-boot. System Monitor is a useful tool to keep an eye on your system resources as well; it is provided with Windows but doesn't install in the Typical scenario. Fire it up through Programs/Accessories/System Tools, or just type SYSMON in the Run box. Most Windows apps take between 5% and 25% of the system resources, depending on their size and complexity. When you exit them, they release their resources. Groups and icons within a group, however, take between 1% and 25% of system resources and, once opened, keep resources in their grip until Windows is restarted. (Norton Desktop is an exception, taking 10% of the system resources but having its icons and groups self-contained and not dependent on system resources.) To find out how much RAM a particular app is sucking up, run System Monitor before firing up the app. Add the numbers from "Other memory" and "Swappable Memory," and subtract the result from "Disk Cache." Start the app and do the same calculation in System Monitor. The difference between the two totals is the amount of RAM that app is using.

Of course, nothing is simple in Microsoft land. Installing new "memory sticks" can cause more problems than it solves. Got problems? First, find out if your new memory stick is defective by downloading and running MemTest86 (free from www.memtest86.com/). In fact, you should run MemTest86 any time you install new memory. If the memory stick passes the test, your new memory module may have a timing mismatch with the old memory stick. Work around this by using the System Setup utility. Get into Setup when you boot up your computer (watch the screen for instructions), and in the memory timings area, check the Column Address Strobe (CAS) value. If it reads 2, change it to 2.5, save, and reboot. This will add time for both modules to react to inputs from the system. If this doesn't do the trick, underclock your system bus. In the Setup utility, find the settings for the frontside bus. Depending on your motherboard, you may be able to hand-tune the bus in 1MHz increments. Drop the bus speed by 10MHz or so. This will slow performance a bit, but it might be worth it to use the extra memory.

And, you should stick to buying all of your memory from the same manufacturer. For some reason, memory sticks from different manufacturers tend to fight for dominance inside your machine, causing you headaches.

Keep up with your system's memory usage by using System Monitor. Open it, click the Add button, choose "Memory Manager," and then choose "Unused Physical Memory." Memory use will be tracked as a graph over time. If you're regularly using 90% or thereabouts of your memory, you should seriously consider adding more RAM.

Every one of us has seen the scary error message, "There is not enough free memory to run this program. Quit one or more programs, and then try again." It isn't your memory that's depleted, it's your system resources. Without getting too technical (and confusing both you and me), Windows divides some of its memory into five specific areas called heaps, as in, "You got a heap o'memory, boy." These heaps belong to the core Windows libraries USER32.DLL and GDI32.DLL. The three USER heaps store internal info about active programs and their menus, along with other esoteric data we don't want to know about, while the two GDI heaps store system objects related to graphics. If you've read the earlier section about Win 95 being the bastard child of Win 3.x, then you'll understand when I tell you that one of the USER heaps and one of the GDI heaps are 16-bit leftovers from the 3.x days. They only have 64K capacity, and when they get jammed, they cause the bottlenecks that result in the ugly error message above. (Win 3.x only had 3 heaps, all 16-bit; as a result, it got jammed much more frequently than Win 9x on average.) Win 3.x depended on the individual program to clear the pipes after termination; the badly written ones that didn't would hog memory even after it was closed, resulting in a jam that required a reboot. Win 9x is a little better at memory management that 3.x, but programs that don't terminate, particularly those that run at startup, choke it regularly. If you find yourself getting this error message frequently, one of your startup apps is probably causing the system depletion. To locate the offender, you'll need to use the Resource Meter applet in Accessories. It's a simple set of bar graphs that is pretty self-explanatory. Fire up Windows, then fire up Resource Meter and note the USER and GDI settings. Go entertain yourself for a half an hour, come back, and record the settings again. You can do it a third or fourth time to really establish a flow. If there's a significant drop, one of your startup apps is draining your system. Use the freeware program Startup Cop from www.pcmag.com/download/ to see which programs are launched at startup, and use the program to temporarily disable half of them. Restart the computer and repeat the exercise with Resource Meter. If the drain is there, one of the programs you've disabled is the source of the problem; otherwise, it's in the other half. Re-enable the programs through Startup Cop. Now divide the "offending half" of the PC's programs into two halves again and repeat. Keep repeating until you've isolated the offender. If you have memory leaks but no startup offenders, you probably leave one app up all the time, and it is sucking up resources. You know what to do -- check elsewhere in this site to see how to remove startup programs and lose the offending fellow. Win98/ME still has the offending heap, but NT/2000 does not.

In a related matter, all the current 9x flavors of Windows, including ME, have a documented glitch that crops up in PCs equipped with more than 512 MB of RAM. Windows sets aside enough memory so it can work with big files, and if the amount of available memory is large, the memory chunk it sets aside is large, too. Unfortunately, if the amount of available memory is over 512 MB, the file-handling routines can grab so much memory that nothing is left for more mundane functions. Even more confusingly, if Windows hits this bug, it may report the problem to you by saying "There is not enough memory available to run this program. Quit one or more programs, and then try again." Or it may hang completely. To warn Windows that you have more than 512MB of memory installed, add the following line to the [VCache] section of your WIN.INI file:
MAXFILECACHE = 524288.

There's plenty more to talk about concerning system resources. If you're like a lot of so-called "power users," you're running 3 or 4 major programs at the same time, and open and close several more during a particular computing session. All of this hogs system resources, particularly when bad-mannered programs won't release their hold on resources even when they're closed. (Go to radsoft.net/Workshop/blacklst.htm for a list of the worst offenders. My jaw dropped as to how many of these badly-behaved apps I use every day.) The low-tech cure is to reboot the thing every so often, but there are better ways to reclaim your resources from greedy apps. MemTurbo is a $20 utility from www.memturbo.com/ that claims to automatically flush your memory taken up by DLL files not currently being used, and recover RAM that has leaked out into the Great Beyond; however, the boys at Radsoft have merrily torn MemTurbo and the programs like it to virtual shreds (visit radsoft.net/resources/software/reviews/rr/ to view the carnage). I have little use for the Radsoft people on a personal basis, but their expertise is well documented. On the other hand, I've used programs like MemTurbo myself, and they seem to work as advertised. As for tracking resource usage, you can use Windows' own Resource Meter...but Resource Meter is a resource hog itself. Hmmm. Two less intrusive utilities that monitor your resource usage for free are TClockEX, from users.iafrica.com/d/da/dalen/tclockex.htm, and PrcView 3.2.3.1, from www.teamcti.com/pview/default.htm, but remember, these are not memory "cleaners" or "restorers," they just monitor your system and report on conditions. Check out www.infinisource.com/win-resources.html for a non-techie walkthrough of system resources. A little knowledge can be a useful thing. Note: Win 98/ME users may not have the System Resource Meter installed on their machine. You can install it from the system CD by going through Add/Remove and clicking on the Windows Update tab. Click on System Tools, choose Details, check the box for the System Resource Meter, and click on OK twice.

Here are a few additional tips on managing your memory better:

  • If you've added many third party TrueType fonts to your system, they take up memory. Use Control Panel's Fonts applet to review how many fonts you have installed. Removing fonts is simple enough. If you do remove them, you should create a backup folder, copy the fonts you plan to remove before using Fonts applet to remove them. You can always restore them later.

  • Ever since the days of Windows 3.x, video driver resolution settings have always directly impacted system memory in Windows. Using Windows at higher resolutions and color settings requires more memory. Any multimedia and imaging applications used at these higher resolutions will use more of your system memory at these settings. You should consider reducing your resolution or going from 32 Hi Color to 16 bit color as that will reduce system memory resources.

  • Websites that rely on Java applets don't always free up memory after you leave that website. When Java applets utilize a lot of graphics, we've often found that Java-authored apps that make use of extensive graphics often eat large chunks of memory and may not release memory after you've left the site or closed your browser.

  • ICQ and Instant Messenger: If you're running the latest version of AIM, often going offline will free up memory. I'm not sure how AIM manages its memory, but if you are running with a maximum list of 160 active users, AIM will use a lot of system memory for that many names. And the longer you have AIM running, the more memory it will consume.

    Microsoft has made available a list of all the switches used by both Win 95 and 98/ME at support.microsoft.com/support/kb/articles/q186/1/11.asp. Not for the faint-hearted but very, very useful to know.

    Some people like to use the "dual-boot" setup, keeping both Win 3x and Win 9x/NT on the same machine. If you've got that setup and you want an easy way to migrate a set of programs and files from Win 3x to 9x/NT, here's how: Make an exact duplicate of your Win 3x folder and all the folders and subdirectories therein. This isn't as huge a task as it sounds; just the Windows and Windows\System folders will usually do the trick, and shouldn't cost you more than 10MB of hard disk space. Create a folder titled Win95, Win98, WinME, or WinNT, depending on what OS you're using. Now, go into MS-DOS or use the Windows File Manager program to copy all your files from C:\Windows (substitute your drive/folder/directory name in place of C:\Windows) and your C:\Windows\System (same) to your C:\Win95, C:\Win98, or C:\WinNT System folder. You will need a sub-folder/directory in your DUPLICATE COPY of Windows 3.x named "System" where you copy the old Windows 3.x system files from the Windows 3.x system sub-folder. Still with me? Now run Windows's installation program and tell it to install itself in the C:\Win95, or whatever, folder. Make sure it "overwrites" your previous installation, if you've already made one. All your original apps are ported to Windows 95, 98, or NT, while still available for use in 3x; additionally, your Registry and your Start Menu are also updated.

    Before installing any programs, close all open apps and disable all anti-virus programs, screensavers, desktop ornaments such as Neko, or whatever. They gum up the works. I don't know whether or not desktop theme packages need to be disabled.

    Before installing any software, make room on your hard drive (double-click on My Computer, right-click the drive, and select Properties to see how much room remains). If the program won't leave you with at least 10% of your drive free, don't install it until you clear some space. Back up the Registry before installing anything; installations turn Registry into an overgrown mess over time. (See above.) You may not want to let the app install itself in its default directory; think about where you want it to go. If appropriate, have it store data in your data folder, not its own. After installing a program, "cool-boot" Windows to see if the program is going to behave. If you have a problem, you know that the new program isn't going to coexist with Windows and you can delete the thing before it wreaks more havoc. (You may need to restore your WIN.INI, SYSTEM.INI, CONFIG.SYS, and/or your AUTOEXEC.BAT files if you've installed a really gnarly piece of software. You do have clean copies backed up, right?)

    Don't compress your hard drive. Just don't do it. If you have the money to have a decent computer, then you have the money to buy, or at least to start saving for, a second hard drive. Compression is at best a temporary solution to a persistent problem (lack of drive space) and it causes more problems than it solves. Zip, Jaz, and the new 40MB Click! drives from Iomega have become popular; storing over a gigabyte on a single disk has its attractions. (SyQuest -- now bankrupt -- and others are giving Iomega some competition; Castlewood has introduced a removable-cartridge drive, the Orb, that uses 2.1gb cartridges that cost only $30.) Now Imation's SuperDisk, the equivalent of 83 floppies, is on the market; it may well take Iomega's Zip drive out because the SuperDisk drive is downward-compatible, able to read today's disks. (Iomega has signed deals with Dell, Micron, Hewlett-Packard, and Toshiba to incorporate Zip drives in their PCs, so even though CD-R storage is superseding it with most users, Zip drives won't be disappearing anytime soon.) The flip side to using this technology is that the reliability of these drives' hardware components has been questioned by a sizable number of users (Iomega's latest release of their Zip Plus drive was still hot off the presses when reports of data-eating bugs appeared; also, many Iomega customers are irritated by the products' flimsy construction and apparent eagerness to consign your stored data to the winds). Download a free utility, Trouble in Paradise, from www.grc.com/ that will let you know if your Zip or Jaz drive is about to fail, and don't forget to peruse the site for useful info and links. Iomega has a page on its Web site concerning the same problems at www.iomega.com/support/documents/2135.html. Another way to save space is to use file compression programs such as PKZip and WinZip. WinZip integrates nicely with Windows, and is easily usable by both novices and experts. Both are widely available as shareware. One thing to avoid is to let your hard disk get to 90% full (or to less than 100mb available). Windows spends lots of time trying to use the relatively small amount of space left, and worse, gives you mysterious error messages and lockups. Find out how much space you have left by right-clicking on the drive icon in My Computer and select Properties. There are also a couple of programs around that transfer less-needed files to a secondary disk like a Zip or a second hard drive, fool Windows Explorer into thinking that the files are still on the C: drive, and allow you to access those files semi-painlessly. Gimme Space from Syncronys SoftCorp is representative of these programs. And why not put your new CD-R or CD-RW drive to work burning copies of your needed data onto pristine CDs? Some manufacturers are estimating the life span of a CD at a minimum of 70 years. Another alternative is to upload your critical files to your Internet provider - AOL, for example, provides each account with up to 10mb of free server space, and if you don't use it for Web storage, why not store your data with your ISP? AOL provides a Private folder to keep Web surfers from surfing among your data, but not all ISPs do that: better check with your provider before uploading your data. And, who says they won't lose it for you? But, if you insist on compressing your data, use DriveSpace 3, provided in the Win 95 Plus Pack. Never ever compress your boot partition, unless you're a real wiz and know what you're doing. Don't forget: Win ME does NOT support drive compression, and neither do disks over 2GB in size.

    Windows uses a disk cache called VCache to hold the hard-disk information you've accessed most recently. Those of us with 16MB or more of RAM (if this isn't you, it ought to be) can tinker with the way Windows handles its VCache to improve app performance. The problem is that Windows sometimes allocates more of your system memory than it needs, reducing the amount of system memory available to your apps, thus increasing the number of times Win 9x has to access the hard drive and waste your time (this happens a lot with systems having over 512MB of memory). The fix is to limit the size of the VCache. Do so by editing SYSTEM.INI. From the Start/Run command, type SYSEDIT and click on OK (Win ME/XP users, type MSCONFIG). Look for the file labeled [vcache] and either add the following lines or edit the lines to read as such:

    MinFileCache=***
    MaxFileCache=***

    The *** values for minimum and maximum file cache can be found in the listing below:

    • Amount of RAM

    • 16MB = min 1024, max 4096

    • 32MB = min 2048, max 6144

    • 64MB = min 4096, max 16384

    • 128MB = min 4096, max 32768

    • 512MB = max 524288

    These new settings allocate about 25% of your available memory to the VCache. Save SYSTEM.INI, close the SYSEDIT (or MSCONFIG) window, and restart Windows for these settings to take effect.

    Win ME users, you may have run into a major snag if you upgraded your memory to more than 1GB (yes, I know, most of us don't have anywhere near this amount of memory). Anything higher than this scrambles ME's tiny little brain. The best thing to do is to alter the VCACHE section of your SYSTEM.INI file to read:

    MaxFileCache=512000

    This allows Win ME's File Cache to recognize 512 MB of cached memory, and to handle a gig of RAM. (If Win ME won't boot up because of this problem, you'll need to uninstall some memory from the machine, make the SYSTEM.INI change, and reinstall the memory.) It's worth noting that Win ME doesn't handle anything over 1 GB of memory with any reliability; Microsoft touts the system as able to handle 2 GB, but this isn't the case.

    You can manually adjust the size of your swap file and avoid some of the aggravating random disk accessing that makes you wait while Windows adjusts your file's size. Microsoft advises against this, but in this case the Redmond boys are wrong. Go into Control Panel, double-click "System," click the "Performance" tab, click the "Virtual Memory" button, select "Let me specify my own virtual settings," and set them where you like (a good rule of thumb is three times your RAM). If it gives you a little thrill to do this in the face of the dire warnings Microsoft gives you here, revel in it. Note: Win9x's swap file doesn't work the same way as Win3.x's; in Win9x, the swap files continue to grow, hogging more and more system resources, until you reboot. A good rule of thumb is to set the size at twice the amount of installed physical memory (RAM). So, if you had 64 megabytes of memory, you'd would set the virtual memory minimum size to 128, and maximum size to 128 as well.

    An oddity crops up with Win 98SE's swap files: once you select the "Let me specify..." setting, both the minimum and maximum boxes become active. The max starts out being set to the amount of available disk space, even if that is bigger than the maximum Win 98 file size. The best thing to do here is not worry about it, but instead just leave it alone. It is essentially the same as not setting a maximum. You can reboot and come back to see that it's set to No Maximum (albeit grayed out). The grayed-out Minimum setting is honored, however. Why do you care about this? Well, if you're up on swap file minutiae, you'll know; if the whole idea of reworking your swap files bores the stew out of you, then don't worry about it.

    Reader Gary Kline makes a useful suggestion regarding swap files: "I have found that one of the culprits to highly fragmented drives is the frequent allocation and reallocation of swap files. The default for all Windows operating systems is to 'let windows manage it.' By doing so, it allocates swap file space only when it needs it. What ultimately happens is that the swap file ends up interleaved with other files on the hard drive and eventually negatively impacts performance. I have found that by designating a permanent swap file (i.e. min and max sizes set equal), fragmentation is noticeably reduced. This can also help increase performance by isolating the region where swap file activity occurs. With the cost of disk space so cheap these days, it's really quite easy to create a swap file that either matches or doubles the RAM installed while only consuming a small portion of available space. It's also a good idea to put the swap file on a separate partition from the operating system root (I always have at least 2 partitions on any given computer--it is shocking PC vendors don't configure at least 2 by default)." Thanks, Gary.

    Cacheman, a free utility from www.outertech.com/, lets you manage your disk memory cache quickly and easily. (Outer Technology's Web site was down, and now it's up but crashes my browser, so you can grab Cacheman from www.pcworld.com/fileworld/
    file_description/0,1458,5267,00.html
    .)

    While we're talking about caches, you can tinker with your CD-ROM cache as well. Go through Control Panel, double-click the System icon, and choose the "Performance" tab. Click "File System" and the CD-ROM tab. Move the Supplemental Cache Size slider to the right to allocate more memory for the CD cache or to the left to allocate less. Hints on what, if any, adjustments to make: Multimedia programs don't need a lot of cache because they seldom reuse data from the CD drive. There's also a setting called "Optimize Access Pattern;" increase this if you use a lot of streaming media or heavy-duty graphics files such as .AVIs. Decrease the "Optimize Access Pattern" setting and increase the Supplemental Cache Size if you access a lot of random data. Confused? Best to leave the settings alone if you aren't sure what you're doing.

    If you've got two physical hard drives in your system, you can use them to boost Windows performance. Put your Windows swap file on the second drive. To set it up, right click My Computer and choose Properties. Click the Performance tab, then the Virtual Memory button. Click "Let me specify my own virtual memory settings." Then click Hard Disk, and from the drop-down menu select your second hard drive. (You'll see the free space for each drive listed in this dialog. If there's less free space on this second drive, either leave things as they were or clear away space on the second drive.) Don't mess with the minimum and maximum settings. Click OK and let Windows restart. When it comes back up, check the virtual memory screen again to make sure that Windows is now managing virtual memory for you again. If not, set it to do so. One source recommends clearing off your second drive completely so that the swap file will be the first thing on that file; if you do that, move all files off the second drive, and run both ScanDisk and Defrag on that drive regardless of whether they say you need to or not. Another way to boost performance is by putting some applications on your second drive. Microsoft Office works perfectly this way, for example.

    View the properties of these multiple drives by opening My Computer and selecting all of your hard drives (hold down Ctrl and click on each drive in turn). Right-click on any drive and choose Properties; Windows will give you a single dialog box with Properties tabs for each drive. This works with floppy drives, removables, and mapped network drives as well.

    If you're one of those Net junkies who love to upload and download files, you can do yourself a favor by using a file compression program such as WinZip, PKZip, Pacific Gold Coast's TurboZip97, or Ontrack (formerly Mijenix)'s rather complex ZipMagic98. WinZip is the standard, and is readily available for download from Nico Mak's Web site at www.winzip.com. WinZip has a function called CheckOut, which allows you to create a temporary folder to unpack and test-drive a downloaded program, and if it doesn't suit you, easily and cleanly delete it without worrying about what it has strewn around your hard drive. Those of you who are into voluminous amounts of stored, catalogued zipped files may prefer TurboZip, which sports a superior file management system over WinZip. ZipMagic is an add-on to Windows Explorer that converts compressed files into accessible directory folders. Hint: Keep your downloaded files in a separate storage folder. Believe me, they will end up all over your disk if you don't keep them in line. If there's no reason to keep a .zip file or a SETUP.EXE file, delete it. Win ME users, don't forget that you have WinPop, the onboard file compression utility. You may need to install it through Add/Remove, but it's there.

    While we're on the topic, here are some general tips for uninstalling programs. If you like to install and uninstall programs frequently (checking out new free and shareware, trying out game demos, etc), you're going to end up with a lot of crap on your hard drive. Take out the garbage by following these tips:

    • Check the file folder that contained the original program. Often saved games or character files remain on the computer even after the uninstall. Simply delete the offending folder and regain some disk space.

    • Win 98 and ME users, check your startup folder using MSCONFIG.EXE. Many programs will leave "stubs" in this folder, even after they're removed. Unchecking the startup program in MSCONFIG will regain system resources. Better yet, you may find all manner of useless stuff that can be easily shut off without having to resort to editing your registry.

    • More 98 and ME tricks: Use System File Checker (SFC.EXE) (Win 98 only) and Version Checker (VCMUI.EXE) to assure that your system files have not been corrupted, deleted or changed by an install/uninstall routine. Games are notorious for installing old versions of DirectX over the new one you downloaded last week. This can cause video, sound and joystick problems that can be easily cured by checking for and restoring the files with the most recent file version number and or date. Don't pay too much attention to file dates as they are often saved according to the date they were installed, not the create date.

    • Win ME and XP users can run a program called DXDIAG.EXE if you have problems that you know are related to DirectX. You can see if your drivers are up to date, check to see if they are working properly and change some default DX settings for compatibilty. If DXDIAG says the driver is uncertified, don't worry too much unless you know the driver is the problem, "certified drivers" are not usually the most recent or best for your games. Older Windows users won't have the DirectX Diagnostic Tool (that's what DXDIAG is), but they can ascertain their DirectX version by searching for DXTOOL.EXE and double-clicking the file to see the version number.

    If ScanDisk creates a file (or lots of files) called something like FILExxxx.CHK and you want to see what's in it, use WordPad. If ScanDisk creates a good number of these, chances are you have a problem somewhere. (.CHK files contain clusters of data that were marked as in use by the file allocation table, but were not actually allocated to any file. These lost clusters are formed when your system crashes while programs have files open, or when you shut down the system without going through the shutdown procedure. Sometimes a .CHK file will contain part or all of a file you were working on at the time of a system crash or power outage. Check the root directory of each drive after running ScanDisk. You can have WordPad load the files so you can eyeball their contents and perhaps recognize something salvageable, but at least one expert says he has never recovered anything useful from a .CHK file. Unless you're recovering from a system crash, that expert says you're probably better off just deleting them and moving on. When I have had a system crash, ScanDisk has reorganized half my hard drive into .CHK files. Even though I could recognize much of the material contained in the files, I found it maddeningly difficult to restore the data; it was easier just to scrub the disk and start over. Unless you're a systems guru, you will probably find the same to be true.)

    Many experts recommend repartitioning your hard disk. This is a serious task best left undone by the novices among us. However, a proper repartitioning can reclaim a good bit of wasted hard disk space, particularly for those running older PC's with 1GB+ disks. Win95 OSR2 and Win98 use the FAT32 partitioning system, which is more efficient than the older FAT16 system. Older PC's, unfortunately, cannot handle FAT32 unless they are scrubbed and given Win98 to chew on. (Go to www.pcworld.com/software/utility/
    articles/oct97/1510p135d.html
    for a lucid explanation of FAT16 and FAT32, why 32 is more efficient, and why you might want to repartition your disk.) To see if you're running 16 or 32, go to My Computer, right-click your C: drive, and select Properties; on the General tab, the type will say FAT32 if that's what you have. (If it says nothing, you have FAT16.) To repartition a FAT16 disk so that it stores data more efficiently, you can run FDISK from the C: prompt, but you will lose all data from the disk (a good idea if you're installing Windows new). Two software programs, Quarterdeck's Partition-It and PowerQuest's Partition Magic, will repartition your disk without losing data; a third, Partition Commander, won't recognize NTFS partitioning but is fine with FAT-to-FAT conversions. My recommendation: If you know what you're doing, give it a shot. If not, unless hard disk space is at an absolute premium, it isn't worth risking the potential confusion and/or damage that may result for the space you will recoup. And another warning: FAT32 doesn't like file compression. For a wordy description of the FAT32 system, go to support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;154997.

    Repartitioning your XP hard drive is a bit different. XP gives you the option of partitioning during installation. It's often a good idea to keep files and directories nicely organized; however, if the partitions turn out to be too small, you have a problem. Windows cannot change the partitions without destroying the data on the hard drive. So, if you want to change the partitions, you'll have to use another program. PartitionMagic from PowerQuest is a terrific solution for repartitioning. Some XP users have their disks set up as a "Dynamic Disk," you can change sizes on the fly. Find out more at support.microsoft.com/default.aspx?scid=kb;en-us;308424.

    Do I even need to warn against downloading and/or running beta programs? (Beta programs are works-in-progress, unfinished by their manufacturers and definitely not yet ready for prime time.) Yes, it sounds cool to impress your nerdy friends by telling them you're a beta tester, but you're asking for system crashes of wide and varying kinds. Unless you like driving yourself nuts, or you're using a PC that isn't necessary for your daily life, stay away from beta programs. In fact, it's a good idea not to download the first release of any new program. Wait until it's been out a while and the most obvious bugs have been caught.

    Monitor the way Windows uses its RAM with a neat little shareware program, SiSoft Sandra, available from www.sisoftware.demon.co.uk/ or www.3bsoftware.com/. Sandra is a diagnostic program with an interface much like Control Panel. Best of all, it's free for home and school users, so you don't have to feel guilty about not paying the author. I liked it so much I did a review of it; you can read the results in Newsletter #11.



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